Thread Theory Belvedere Waistcoat

It's rare to find a menswear piece that is so small, quick, and also satisfying to create! A classic fitted waistcoat paired with modern design elements, the Belvedere Waistcoat is perfect for creating a polished wardrobe for formal occasions and more: depending on fabric choice, this timeless design can serve so many purposes! This one pattern can be used to sew a casual layering piece, an elegant tweed classic, something dressy for your groomsmen, or the finishing touch for a three-piece suit. Featuring a moderately low neckline and angled hem, the Belvedere makes use of a curved back seam and long darts on both the front and back to fit the garment close to the body; the waistcoat is fully lined and includes a back neckline facing for a high-end, professional finish. Belvedere is the perfect canvas to practice basics or to take your time and add all sorts of beautiful details: you can return to this pattern throughout your entire sewing career, each time increasing the attention to detail, the quality of the fabric, and the level of fit achieved.

The pattern comes with two premade variations, but for even more options, don't forget to check out their free PDF add-ons for alternate pockets and adjustable belt options! Created as a satisfying tailoring challenge, Variation 1 features some lovely details such as three welt pockets and small side seam vents, with tips and suggestions spread throughout the instruction booklet that encourage intermediate sewers to expand their skill set. For a quick and easy version with friendly, simplified construction techniques, Variation 2 is a very minimalist take on a traditional waistcoat, with fewer buttons, no pockets, and no side seam vents. It’s an excellent project for a relative novice who would like to push themselves to learn a solid foundation of skills: by the time you are finished sewing the Belvedere you will have learned how to stay stitch, under stitch, sew darts, line a garment, and add buttonholes, so you're ready to tackle all manner of garment projects!

Recommended Fabrics:
1. The Front: With very few rules to follow, you can select from a huge variety of fabric types depending on the style you are hoping to achieve! Light to medium weight suiting fabrics are ideal; try a wool suiting for a classic waistcoat to pair with trousers for formal event, a wool tweed for a winter waistcoat that pairs nicely with trousers or jeans, or a canvas fabric for a summery waistcoat perfect for weddings. More unconventional choices could include linen, silk, denim, corduroy, textured upholstery fabric, or even a thick and fairly stable knit!
2. The Back: For the waistcoat back fabric, you can choose a statement fabric, a neutral fabric or the same fabric as your waistcoat front. If you have used a statement fabric for your waistcoat front, try a neutral lining material for your vest back that will coordinate nicely with the wearer's trousers, while if you have opted for a neutral waistcoat front, an unexpected 'surprise' back is a fun option! For casual waistcoats to be worn without a suit jacket, it is common to use the same material as the front, or you can opt for a contrast fabric that is not slippery since it doesn't need to sit nicely under a jacket.
3. The Lining: Select a good quality slippery lining material that will not catch on the wearer's shirt. If the waistcoat will be worn under a jacket, lining materials are ideal for the back as well! Bemberg (a type of rayon lining) is a perfect choice, but acetate or silk lining will also do nicely. If you are not using the same fabric for both the lining and the back, swap .7 yards of the lining fabric for .7 yards of your choice of main or contrast fabric.

Tip: The welt pockets of Variation 1 involve a lot of folding, so keep in mind that thick fabric, fabric that frays, or fabric that does not press well will make constructing the pockets more difficult; you can reduce bulk by doing one (or more) of the following: choose a light to medium weight main fabric, choose a light interfacing, or cut the welt pieces from a lightweight contrast fabric. Belvedere is a great scrap buster since it is easy to mix and match fabrics, and it’s a perfect pattern for fun combinations of fabric!

Materials & Supplies:
You will need a main fabric, a lining fabric, a fabric for the back, medium weight fusible or sewn-in interfacing (see chart), and ½”-⅝” buttons (six for Variation 1, five for Variation 2). Variation 1 uses the lining fabric for the pockets by default, but you can choose ⅛ yard of tightly woven cotton (sometimes called pocketing) instead for a sturdier option.

Sizes: XS-4XL. The pattern is ready to wear with mid to high rise dress trousers, with instructions on how to measure and lengthen the pattern pieces to suit any pair of pants. A properly fitted waistcoat is hard to find in a store but is exceptionally easy when you sew one yourself!

Difficulty: Beginner (Variation 2) or Intermediate (Variation 1). Thread Theory’s detailed Waistcoat Sew-along includes all sorts of helpful posts on fitting to a variety of body types, altering the Belvedere to match your suit jacket, changing the shape of the hem, adding thoughtful personalized details, and, of course, the nitty gritty of completing the basic waistcoat sewing process, with lots of step-by-step color photos!